Drawer Cabinet for Tools 2 Foot Tall

Hand Tool Storage Storage locker and Tool Review is sponsored by The Home Depot. I have been paid for my time and provided with product. Whol ideas and opinions are my own. This mail service contains some affiliate links for your convenience. Click Here to read my full disclosure policy. During this build, I'll be reviewing the Ridgid Exercise/Bear on combo, Bosch multipurpose Mandrillus leucophaeus bits and Husky small drawer organizer and will share my thoughts connected these tools.

I have been slowly chipping away on projects in what I fondly call "The Smashing Service department Makeover!" When I tell slowly, I mean equal molasses happening a cold day, operative up hill, kindhearted of slowly (merely I'm acquiring there). The finish is to produce a place for everything and receive everything in information technology's place. For my puppet organization, I'm workings on a series of 3 large computer memory cabinets with unparalleled features to keep me organized. Plus they'll have doors, so information technology'll hand down my service department a spotless expression and minimize the number of sawdust that piles on EVERYTHING! This first cabinet is mainly for storing and organizing hand tools, wrenches, etc. I'll have a cabinet for finishing supplies and a 3rd for power tools!

The unfinished version of the hand tool around memory storage locker.

Cabinet with Doors Blocked // Cabinet with Doors Gaping // Cabinet with Shelves Pulled Out

How to Build a Hand Tool Storage Cabinet for the Service department

Materials

6 sheets of 3/4″ plyboard (4′ x 8′) – there are different grades of plywood that will affect the cost, this is birken plyboard
2 – 1 x 2 x 8′ boards – if doing the metallic pin display panel sliders
1 1/4″ pocket hole screws
8 sets of 22″ drawer slides – optional for bloomers
6 sets of 16″ drawer slides – nonmandatory for back down metal pegboard
6 pieces of 16″ x 32″ Wall Insure all-metal pegboard
10 hinges
wood glue
sand
block u pulls/feel pulls
Husky microscopic parts organizer – perfect for screws
forest finish or paint – As desired. I used white exterior on the doors and oil based polyurethane happening everything other.
1 1/4″ brad nails – optional

Tools Used

Ridgid Exercise/Impact Jazz band
Kreg gigue
Table saw Beaver State circular saw and optional rip edit and miter sawing machine
Sander
Bosch Multi-purpose bits
35 millimetre forstner tur for the out of sight hinges
1/16″ bit for pilot holes
screwdriver
mensuration tape
pencil
square
clamps – equally needed
brad nailer

Hand Tool Organization Storage Cabinet Prune Inclination

4 – 3/4″ x 24″ x 96″ (doors, sides) Note: Even though the tilt says 24″, conscionable cut the sail in half. The width will be more like 23 15/16″ because of the width of the blade.
1 – 3/4″ x 46 1/2″ x 94 1/2″ (backwards)
2 – 3/4″ x 24″ x 46 1/2″ (top/bottom) (same width atomic number 3 the sides, about 23 15/16″)
2 – 3/4″ x 23 1/4″ x 46 1/2″ (shelves)
8 – 3/4″ x 19 5/8″ x 20 1/2″ (drawer bottoms)
4 – 3/4″ x 3 3/4″ x 19 5/8″ (large drawer backs)
8 – 3/4″ x 3 3/4″ x 21 1/4″ (gargantuan drawer sides
4 – 3/4″ x 3 3/4″ x 21″ cut to ready (large drawer fronts)
4 – 3/4″ x 2 1/4″ x 19 5/8″ (weensy drawer backs)
8 – 3/4″ x 2 1/4″ x 21 1/4″ (dinky drawer sides)
4 – 3/4″ x 2 1/4″ x 21″ cut to fit (small drawer fronts)
1 – 3/4″ x 23 1/4″ x 42″ (drawer divider)
2 – 3/4″ x 16″ x 34″ (oarlock board dividers)
2 – 3/4″ x 1 7/8″ x 23 1/4″ (upper shelf supports)
2 – 3/4″ x 3 3/4″ x 23 1/4″ (lower shelf supports)
2 – 3/4″ x 1 7/8″ x 16″ (peg table supports)
6 – 3/4″ x 1 7/8″ x 22″ (drawer spacers) – Take down: some plywoods are non exactly 3/4″ slurred, extra shimming may be needed on drawer slides or you crapper wait to build drawers until you know the exact breadth of drawer needed. Remember to subtract 2 x 1/2″ for drawer slides.
12 – 3/4″ x 1 1/2″ x 15 1/2″ from solid wood not plywood (peg down board filler) if doing the metal peg board sliders (not shown in cut leaning below)

Hand Instrument Memory board Cabinet Cut Diagram

I used a table saw to cut up the plywood

However a circular saw and straight edge will make just fine.

Drill sack holes for main cabinet

Once the pieces for the main cabinet body are undercut, drill scoop holes for 3/4″ corporal in the following pieces and according to sketch.

All 4 sides of back
3 sides of peg board dividers (shown American Samoa top divider)
2 ends of draftsman partition
2 ends of top and bottom pieces
1 long edge in of upper and get down shelves

Any of the pocket hole jig varieties should workplace. I used the R3 because it's a little more portable and small than the past jigs.

Creature Storage Cabinet Assembly

Surprisingly assembling the cabinet goes pretty quick, although it is beastly. I rattling like the Ridgid drill/impact jazz group, keep the drill bit in the Mandrillus leucophaeus and drive the screws with the impact. My favorite feature of the impact is the torque settings 1-2-3. I found 2 to be perfective tense for driving pocket hole screws, but when I genuinely needed torsion when working with Treks on the back decorate, 3 was essential. Prissy body of work Ridgid.

I besides love the Husky micro parts organizer for having a handy and easily portable way to organize screws and much. Just get out out the drawer of screws needed and off you go!

Assembly with sac holes

To start off the assembly, I stood the back assemble awake on a flavourless come up (ie garage floor) and clamped the top and bottom piece to the back. Make use all pocket holes face the outside of the cabinet. Practice woodwind instrument glue and 1 1/4″ pocket pickle screws to attach the bottom and top pieces to the back. Try to keep the edges rich.

To cook assemblage easier, I added all of the shelves and dividers now.

For the drawer partition, measure and mark the center line of the console and divider. Mark reference marks to adjust with and bond with wood glue and 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws.
Attach a lower shelf support at 42″ up from the bottom, utilize wood glue and 1 1/4″ brad nails or screws.
Attach the lower ledge 42″ up from the bottom, use wood glue and 1 1/4″ air hole holes to secure it in spot. Bell ringer the nitty-gritty and secure the drawer divider to the lower shelf with wood glue and pocket hole screws.
Mark over 15″ from each locker side and secure the peg board dividers with wood glue and 1 1/4″ pocket hollow screws.
Attach a upper shelf support at 76 3/4″ up from the bottom, role wood glue and 1 1/4″ brad nails or screws.
Attach the upper shelf 76 3/4″ up from the bottom. use wood glue and 1 1/4″ pocket holes screws to secure IT in place.

Finally seize the other position to the round top and bottom pieces with wood glue and 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws. Attach a lower shelf endorse at 42″ awake from the bottom and upper shelf support at 76 3/4″ up from the bottom.

Building the tool case drawers

The drawer construction is the same, whether it is the taller 3 3/4″ or shorter 2 1/4″ drawer. Start by drilling pocket holes for 3/4″ bodied. Drill the pocket holes all around the draftsman tail, on 2 ends of the drawer back and 1 end of from each one drawer side.

Close attach the back to the rear. Make dependable the back pocket holes are facing to the hindermost. Then use Mrs. Henry Wood glue and 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws to attach the vertebral column to the nates. Make the bottoms and sides flush.

Then attach the two sides to the bottom of the inning and back pieces. Make sure the side pocket holes are facing out and are facing front. Use wood glue and 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws to attach the sides to the bottom and back.

Finally attach to the front to the drawer. Use Mrs. Henry Wood glue and 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws to attach the bottom to the front piece and the sides to the social movement piece.

Attaching the Metal Pegboard Sliders

The metal peg boards are folded metal and create a 5/8″ pocket. Therefore we need to add some scrap wood as a filler to attach the drawer slides to. If you have 5/8″ material, that would be ideal to use, or you'll need to cut some rabbets along the ending of the filler boards. I used the table saw, only the rabbets could be made with a cheat, recip saw, scroll power saw, etc. If you use 1×2 material, cut is 15 1/2″ long-lived and make a rebate going away 5/8″ x 3/4″ material on the ends.

Then slide the makeweight pieces in the end of the metal pegboard. Unrivaled end of the pegboard has holes already trained in, attach the makeweight wood with 2 – 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws. The other cease will need a couple holes trained. I secondhand these slick Bosch multipurpose tungsten carbide bits, they can practice metal, Wood, cement, roofing tile, etc. Perfect for this situation. Once the holes are drilled, in safe custody the wood filler to the pegboard with a couple 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Add spacers/supports

When designing the tool around storage cabinet, I wasn't sure enough the clearance I would pauperism on the sides for the doors to be oven and knickers pulled out. Because I precious to use furtive hinges, I knew there would be some interference, so I aforethought to have the draftsman runners attach to spacers on the sides to present plenty of clearance.

Measure and mark the locations for the spacers/supports. Attach the spacers/supports with wood glue and 1 1/4″ brad nails or screws.

Then measure and mark the same placements for the drawer slides on the dividers. The bottoms of the drawer slides will line up with the bottom of the spacers. The draftsman slides should be butted upwards against the back piece. The upper peg control panel drawer slides volition be flush with the tipto of the partition.

Attach the drawer slides

To make installation the draftsman slides easy, I like to place the drawer and inner slide piece on a flat surface to install. I have better luck at instalmen them straight that fashio. Align the drawer slide and then IT has about 1/8″ gap in the back (the inner drawer lantern slide piece doesn't move on all the way to the back of the outer drawer slide piece. And then drill pilot holes and install the slide with screws.

For the peg board, I lined astir the inner drawer slide piece to the top side of the makeweight wood and screwed in position.

Then hung that on the corresponding draftsman microscope slide in the cabinet. Then I pull prohibited the lower draftsman slide that will attach to the bottom of the peg board and secure it to the lour makeweight wood.

Attaching the doors

Since the doors are so tall, 96″. I ill-used 5 hinges per door. I truly the like the easiness of install and set-ability that the euro concealed hinges provide. However a 35 mm forstner tur is needed. I have an old handy template/forstner piece that I bought years ago at Home Store to install concealed hinges. It was hanging right by the hinges in the storage locker hardware aisle.

I pronounced the center-line for the hinges 3 1/2″, 24″, 48″, 72″ and 92 1/2″. Then drilled the 35mm hole, make sure to not practise through the plywood, just deep enough for the hinge to fit.

And then I marked the holes for the screws, drilled cowcatcher holes (1/16″ act) and installed the screws.

On the cabinet, I marked the same substance-lines toss off the inside of the side pieces (measuring from the outside of the face) 3 1/2″, 24″, 48″, 72″ and 92 1/2″. For the hinges I victimised the screws attached about 1 7/16″ in from the march of the cabinet. Bore pilot program holes for the mounting piece of the flexible joint.

Set up the doorway to the storage locker and adjust the hinges Eastern Samoa necessary.

The built cabinet

Before finish.

With the doors open, lots of storage room. You can add u or take away pants for your needs.

I love having things chicken out, so I don't rich person to rummage through cabinet shelves! I did change my bottom drawer to be a pull stunned tray…for a specific tool.

These Wall Control metal pegboards are awesome. I love their accessories because they attach snuggly, but you can also practice typical pegboard accessories.

The Finished Cabinet

I painted the doors with outdoor white paint.

I added 14 1/2″ exclude pulls in chrome.

On the wrong of the cabinet, I practical edge banding to wholly of the plywood edges. Then I sanded everything smooth (to about 150 grit) then coated the plyboard in Minwax polyurethane.

I added aluminum finger pulls to the knickers.

The middle drawers are nice for storing tools and much. I love the slow access to the support of the draftsman without having to rummage.

My top shallow drawer is organized for drill bits. I added 2.5 mm plywood for dividers.

The Husky small parts organizer makes sorting screws, biscuits, bolts, nuts, etc so nice.

I really sleep with this console in my garage, it has been huge for helping me organize!

Superficial for many organization projects, check out my Drill and barrage fire organizer!

Download plans –> Here <–

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Drawer Cabinet for Tools 2 Foot Tall

Source: https://www.hertoolbelt.com/garage-hand-tool-storage-cabinet-plans/